Mezen biography

Photo: Svetlana Loychenko photographers and ethnographers can sometimes hear that the Mezen district is not for tourists, most of all he attracts photographers and ethnographers. He also attracts tourists, but, of course, those who understand why they are going there and what difficulties can face. But it is precisely the inaccessibility of many villages that attracts special travelers.

And what can we say about participants in scientific folklore and other expeditions. Mezen is one of the favorite places for researchers - remoteness here plays an important role, so ethnographers are looking for what is already lost in other, more lively places, and photographers are the same rare beauty. This year, employees of the Proppov Center worked here on expeditions, who not only conduct historical studies of traditional culture, but also evaluate how much it is present in everyday life.

Themes are the most diverse, they relate not only to folklore. For example, one of the studies is about how childbirth took place in different years, what rituals and customs accompanied by this important family event, which of them and today matter. And recently, in the living rooms in Arkhangelsk, researchers of the Proppov Center Inna Veselov, a philologist, a folklorist, an anthropologist, a candidate of philological sciences, and love Golubev, a folklorist, a cultural anthropologist, gave a lecture “Heiress, Plates and another in their chests and stories”.

And also artists ... Is there a place more in demand among professional painters? For example, an artist from St. Petersburg has been traveling to Kimzhu’s beloved artists for thirty years in a row. Now in the tourist complex Golubino, his exhibition is being held, according to him, then it will move to Arkhangelsk. So the mezen for many becomes a way of life ... The road is changing the clothes how to get to Mezen?

It is worth calling the phone that is easy to find on the Internet, and they will come for you. In Arkhangelsk, a gathering either from early morning or after lunch. It is difficult to say the exact time, because who knows where to collect passengers. On the day I was driving, the car came up at 15 o’clock, although the collection began at 14 - it turns out that I had to go after the passenger who lives in Maimax.

And this does not affect the price of a ticket - it is three thousand. I was thinking about the plane. But he flies on certain days that were inconvenient for me. And there is a risk: the weather has deteriorated - and that’s it. And when you go on a business trip for several days, this is of fundamental importance. The road to Mezen is a special story. Relatively recently, it was not at all.

True, they tried to build it both during the time of Peter the Great and Catherine the Second. But it did not work. The road appeared only in the year. It already requires renewal, as experts say, road clothing. In the year of work on the National Project "Safe quality roads" began with the repair of the Arkhangelsk - Belogorsky - Pinega - Kimzha - Mezen highway. Now there are work on a section of 32 kilometers of a dirt road, which connects Pinezhsky and Mezen district.

It starts from the village of Kula Pinezhsky District and reaches the border with the Mezen district. Experts talk about plans - after the completion of the repair of this section, continue to equip the road going to the Mezen. Of course, it is inconvenient to go inconveniently during the repair work, moreover, rains passed, and I had to wait for the transport on one side to miss and start to let it go on the other.

But people understood that these difficulties were temporary ... By the way, on the way they stayed once - in Belogorsky, where you could eat and use the toilet. We stopped in Pinega, but near the Bristol and Magnit stores, where there were no amenities. Fortunately, the pontoon crossing has already worked, so they crossed the Mezen river, or rather, moved quite quickly.

And after all these crossings, the Mezen, indeed, seemed to be a real city - the center of civilization, but its own, special ... The dream of Mezenskaya syneclis, if almost travel notes are obtained, should be said about where you can settle in Mezen. I was informed that the most popular place there is the Mesensky Coast hotel.

And when I called there a week before leaving, they answered me that there were no places. Then, by searching on the Internet, I found the Everest guest house. I called the specified mobile number. The person who answered me was obviously busy or in a hurry. He said that there was a place and asked the SSMEC to inform my name, as well as when and how much I come. Which I did.

And no longer returned to this topic. I remembered that I was not sure if I had housing, when I arrived in Dorogorskoye. And then a call. A familiar voice asked if I was going, and also where I am now. Upon learning that in Dorogorsky, the interlocutor replied that he would not wait for me, he also returned from the trip, and he is still doing. I was surprised - how am I going to settle?

He was also surprised at the question: “And what prevents you from settling? Go up to the second floor, your room number one room, the key in the doors ... ”It looked like the door left an unlocked door in the northern villages.We drove up to Everest at about eleven in the evening - the driver was not local, there was no one on the street to ask, so we wandered.

We drove up with the embankment, only then it turned out that the entrance from the other side. But I saw this house, as they say, in full growth. This is the same house that Alexei Barinov built - he at one time led the powerful company Arhgeoldobych, was elected senator, as well as the governor of the Nenets Autonomous Okrug. The house was intended for geologists who were learning oil on Mezenskaya syneclis.

On Mezenskaya syneclis, or hollow, they looked for oil from another year, then several wells were drilled, but they were empty. But the belief that they would certainly find oil was so strong that this house for geologists even appeared. And in the year near the Nyfta River, the Midniffa well was drilled. Alas ... she also turned out to be empty. Anatoly Antonovich very painfully perceived this news and the decision to terminate the searches.

Although geologists said that there is definitely oil there - just this place is not very studied. Or maybe nature saves it for the future? As it turned out later, I was talking to him on the phone. The front door was open, she led to the spacious terrace, then to the kitchen, then I climbed to the second floor. Everything was, as promised - the key in the doorway, the room is small, but with everything necessary.

It seems that workers lived in the house, but I almost never saw them - they left early, and the house was empty, and I returned late when the house was quiet. The front door never closed, which was very convenient. And it seemed right - from whom to close and why? They also agreed that he would come and I would pay for living ... These are also features of life in the city, which has the distance to the new land closer than to Moscow ...

by the way, about syneclosis. The Ministry of Natural Resources and the LPC of the Arkhangelsk Region announced the renewal of exploration on the search for new oil fields in the territory of Mezenskaya syneclise. So, perhaps, Everest will also accept those for whom he was originally intended - that is, geologists. And the great dream of Mezenskaya syneclosis will become a reality.

The park from the future and the alley from the past but today in Mezen "city -forming enterprises" are cultural institutions. The conversation is separate about them. It turned out that the house in which I settled stood in the distance from the city center, but on the other hand, at the Mezen Rublevka. This is a whole street of modern houses, which began with the construction of housing under the program for supporting a young family, and then grew.

These houses are already connected to central heating. And the construction continues, which means there are a lot of those who connect their lives with Meslen. Photo: Svetlana Loichenko so far to concrete, and this is the main street of Mezen, which is called Sovetskaya, you have to make your way through the mud. But then the road to the very center is straight and clean.

I was surprised - have both the sign and the alley are preserved? It turned out that the alley was real, and local communists installed an updated sign recently. By the way, all kinds of landings for anniversary dates are made a lot, but how many of them survive? In Mezen, the alley took root and grew up, it is clear that they looked after her. More than half a century.

And this is also a story. And for modern youth, a youth park was built in the city under the program “Forming a comfortable urban environment”. This is a large space with the paths that are inscribed in the relief, there is a simulator, swings, arbors, a bridge through a stream. A swing, sandbox, a kind of amphitheater are installed on the fair area. It turned out that this place for communication is convenient when the company is large.

The youth park is not only in demand among young people - here you can see people of different ages, mothers with children, grandparents with grandchildren. The Mezants said that when specialists from Arkhangelsk built a youth park, they said that this was not even in the regional center. And they even envied ... Photo: Svetlana Loichenko Mezen is a city, to which those who have visited it are usually returned.